Move over beef, elk is what’s for dinner
Steamboat might be synonymous with skiing, but it is elk hunting that has defined a way of life in the Yampa Valley for generations. “I think Northwest Colorado has some of the largest elk herds in the country. People come from all over to hunt the Yampa Valley,” says Lonny Vannatta, owner/operator of Vannatta Outfitters. “I grew up elk hunting with my family. It’s a way of life for me. It always has been, and it always will be.”
In fact, eating elk is as much a Steamboat pastime as swilling microbrew beer at après ski. Elk dishes are a hallmark of the fall culinary season. Talk about local, fresh, and organic; it doesn’t get much better than (to borrow a hunter’s terminology) some local kill.
We caught up with Kate Rench, Executive Chef at Café Diva to talk about elk preparation and how she gets her game on when it comes to Steamboat’s meatiest delicacy.
How would you describe the flavor profile of elk meat?
It’s slightly gamier than beef, but what the animal eats can affect the flavor, so every cut is different. Think of a rare steak or beef tenderloin medallions—it’s very tender meat when it’s prepared correctly.
What’s your favorite preparation?
Most of the hunters that come to my restaurant like a more basic dish—they’re meat and potatoes kind of guys. So I do a seared elk with veal demi glace. I serve it with hericot vert and mashed potatoes. For people who like a more elaborate dish, I do seared elk with cauliflower and kale gratin and serve it with a purple potato and bacon hash with a horseradish cream.
Our mouths are watering just thinking about it. Walk us through the steps.
I use the short loin, which is the upper tier of the tenderloin. I begin by seasoning it with kosher salt and cracked black pepper. You want it to keep it on the rare/medium rare side or it becomes chewy. I sear it on a very high temperature in clarified butter. Then I finish it off in the oven so it doesn’t overcook, burn, or over crust.
What’s your advice for the home cook when it comes to working with elk?
It really depends on the cut. Loins in general are leaner and more tender and don’t need much more than a quick sear at a high temperature and simple seasoning. Ground elk is usually mixed with a fatty meat like pork or beef and can be used the same way as ground beef, for burgers, taco filling, chili, and meat sauce for pasta. Like beef, the rump and tougher cuts should be braised or slow cooked to break down the cartilage.
Have you ever gone hunting?
I’ve been working with the product for 15 years but I’ve never pulled the trigger. I did hike my friend’s elk out of the woods once. I carried a 110-pound leg on my back, thinking about what I would do if I encountered a mountain lion.
For more on elk preparation or reviews of Kate’s delectable elk dishes from Steamboat Sotheby’s International Realty’s staff lucky enough to sample the goods, join our conversation on Facebook.